Athens (edited from B.L. Add.Mss. 56527 and 56529)

[My Greek being rudimentary, I’d welcome it if errors could be pointed out.]

Monday, Xmas Day, December 25th 1809

Up before daylight – off at half past ten (by my watch).  Crossed this plain, which is about three miles long and two broad in this place, and has now only three small villages and a spot or two of vineyard, and being once most probably the site of a large city.  To the south for an hour, then got into pine woods rising on the side of the hills that terminate this vale to the east and south-east.  Horses tumbling, as if by consent, one after the other – road south-south-east, stony paths through these woods, that are not thick, but of great extent.

As we got further, the path over high hills, passed what they call the κακη σκαλα1 – (Europus to the north-east) and on a height in the pine-woods, which would have afforded a lonely resort enough for Timon,2 had the first view of Athens3 (twenty-five minutes to three) with its citadel on the eminence in the midst, the plains, and the sea.  A little farther saw the walls of an antiquity on one side of a rugged rock, rising through the wood over a deep glen – this may have defended one of the passes into Attica.  The road became every moment more romantic, over steep hills clothed with more noble pine trees – till we arrived at Capha, a better sort of Greek town, where we had been recommended by Signor Strané to sleep between Thebes and Athens, four o’clock.  Thence road on a plain, which appeared more like England than anything we had for some time seen, stretching out to the north-east, with a considerable town in the distance.  The mosque, tipped with the last rays of the sun, not unlike a village spire, and woods closing the view with vistas in them like those I have seen in Lord Ludlow’s woods in Bedfordshire.4  A plain extending also before us, except to south-south-east.

Turned round the corner of a little hill and saw the citadel of Athens.5

Road more wide, and plain through grounds cultivated with wheat and vineyards, then through olive grounds for an hour, and afterwards, for the last hour, on a broad Newmarket Road6 without trees.  Entrance through an arch, and indeed everything in the approach to this city presents the notion of something superior to everything, even more in Greece.  The streets, however, seem as usual narrow and bad, and the house where we are lodged, Madame Theodora Macri,7 not so good as expected.

Bad supper.  To bed at twelve.

Entered Athens this Xmas day, half-past eight, 1809.

Tuesday December 26th 1809

Up twelve.  Walked out to the English Vice Consul Logotheti,8 who had the impudence to propose his gawky son as a travelling-companion to us.  Afterwards received a visit from Signor Lusieri, Lord Elgin’s painter here.9  He says that the French for twenty years have been attempting to procure that which Lord Elgin has got, and are now doing what they can to prevent the remainder of the antiquities from being shipped.  Query? is not this a good excuse for my Lord’s barbarous love for these antiquities?10

Dinner – pigeons and Scian wine, olives – not ripe yet.  On the pines, nets of caterpillars.

Mr Lusieri in his manner exactly like David Baillie – – – – …11

Athens subject to a governor appointed by the chief of the black eunuchs at Constantinople.12

This Ms. finished with the adventures of December 26th 1809, and the above view of the Acropolis from two hour’s distance on ye road from Thebes. – – – –13

Wednesday December 27th 1809

Up ten.  Walked out at three with Lusieri and Logotheti to call on the governor of the town14 (there is another of the Acropolis).15  Saw him, a personable man who had served in Egypt.

Came back, dined, passed the evening at home, i.e. at the widow Macri’s, ye house of the former English consul here.

Thursday December 28th 1809

Up half-past eleven.  At one, walked out with Mr Lusieri.  Took the way to the west, walked to the temple of Theseus16 – entire, but some pillars disjointed by earthquakes.  The church is enclosed by the columns with a little iron-plated door to it, pierced full of pistol, bullet, and gun holes – striking effect of the simplicity and apparent strength of this architecture – Doric.  The <labours of> Lapithæ and Centaurs17 battle in basso relievo on the west front.

Going further on, taking the circuit to the south, saw the Pnyx,18 the steps of the tribune remaining, and the ground below being cleared away by my Lord Aberdeen,19 a tolerable notion can be conceived of this place.  Here Dr Clarke20 mounted the steps, and repeated a Greek speech which was well-heard at the remotest part of that which now appears to be a natural amphitheatre in the hill.  Just above this place is the spot from whence they say Alcibiades pointed out to the Athenians the prospect of the sea when he wished to persuade them to the Sicilian expedition.21

From this place the view is very advantageous, taking in, to the west the Piræus, and the other harbours, Munyelia and Phalerno, the line of coast which comprises them being so perfectly soft and picturesque as to leave nothing wanting to complete the coup d’oeil.  Beyond the Piræus is the black land of Salamis,22 and on the mainland the little hill with the piece of rock on the top from which Xerxes23 surveyed the battle of Salamis.  Behind these may be just discerned the white mountains of the Isthmus.  To the south of Salamis is Ægina, and behind and farther on, the hills of the Peloponnesus.  The foreground to the Piræus is a flat, covered with olive groves and vineyards, with ranges of wheat ground, that in this season of the year appear as green as the verdure of an English vale.

Thence walked up the higher hill to the tomb of Phillippapus,24 where all the statues want heads.  From this spot, where the city in the flat below the Acropolis to the north is seen to advantage, and every point of view is taken in, Mr Lusieri intends taking two views, each of which is to have half of the tomb in it, so that the two pictures may be joined and represent the whole prospect.

Thence we walked down the hill towards the Acropolis, and passed by the Turkish burying ground where the headstones are <composed of/>of pieces of ancient small pillars, and where is the carved turban of a Mussulman25 who is buried at Constantinople and at Smyrna likewise, and is said often to appear amongst the living.  Passed by close under the rock of the Acropolis to the right (south) where is the cave in which Apollo enjoyed Creusa.26

Went to Lusieri’s house – got a letter from George Forresti and Strané, and Byron one from his mother.  Went out with Byron on horseback to the Temple of Theseus and the tomb of Philoppapus – noted, on the right (north) of the Pnyx, a descent about a yard and a half, worn smooth and shining, with an excavation at the top like that of a Turkish necessary.  This, Mr Lusieri told me, was a place where the women of Athens, Greeks and Turks, came to slide down repeatedly, in hopes that the operation would favour their production of male children.

From Philoppapus, rode down the hill to the columns of Olympian Jupiter27 – sixteen of them still, but one with the foundation stones removed, so as to threaten a fall the next earthquake – magnificence inconceivable of these to the south-south-east of the city.  Thence this Adrian’s28 triumphal arch into the city, and round by the walls.  Home to dinner in Mr Galton’s29 apartment.  To bed one, near.

Friday December 29th 1809

Up ten.  Walked out with Mr Galton to the east, through the city, to go to the Acropolis, but prevented by Mr Lusieri, who informed me that without previous communication and a present of tea and sugar, the governor of the citadel would not admit us.  Turned by the eastward still, therefore and saw the Temple of the Winds,30 octangular &c., on the outside only.  Passed to the Lantern of Demosthenes,31 in a convent where one monk only resides, in a decent habitation under the French direction.32  In this lantern the monk has a little library – it is very small.  Passed on to the south bank of the rock of the Acropolis, where are the remains, such as they are now – nothing of the Temple of Bacchus.33  Climbed up to the two pillars above – the statue of Bacchus just removed by my Lord Elgin – here are no signs of the theatre below.  Visited again, to the left, the triumphal arch of the temple Jupiter Olympius, and then walked down a little farther to the south, into the bed of the Ilyssus, where no water runs.

Passed up a short distance to the eastward (left) to the stadium, where saw the hole through which the vanquished retreated – in this hole some old women of Athens perform at midnight some sacrifices to some spirit, and leave offerings honey and flour, of which I saw evident signs.  They likewise collect the foam of the sea for their magics.34  Walking back from the Stadium, with the pillars of Olympus to the left, shown the small eminence of the Lyceum to the right, a short distance off – the hill to the right (east) Mount Hymettus,35 not high nor picturesque, having no eminence but being a range of rock apparently.  Passing over the ploughed lands, a thousand pieces of marble.  Athens and its ruins is so small a space, but more striking than I conceived it could be.  Returned home through the wall gate to the east – the walls in this quarter nearly upon the site of the ancient.

Rode with Byron to the Piræus.  Road from ye gate round the temple of Theseus to the west partly through olive grounds.  Evident marks of pieces of the long walls – Piræus a small port with a narrow entrance.  Returned after seeing the chests which are Elgin’s cargoes, and the Idriote ship to convey them.36

Dined with Mr Galton, who gave me as a parting present the sling lead “ΔΕΞΑΙ”.37  Bed.  “X . X²”38 – he had another with “Philippis” on it – see the story of “to Philip’s right eye”.39

Saturday December 30th 180940

Up eleven.  Breakfasted with Mr Galton.  Rainy night and morning.  At three, rode out to the Munychia, a larger port than ye Piræus, but apparently not so secure, the shore here so shelved as to give a tumultuous noise to the waves, even in this calm day, which may have rendered it an eligible place for the practises of Demosthenes,41 as Byron said.  Marshy grounds and fresh water lake there, lying south-east of the Acropolis.  Returned galloping by the back (south) of the Acropolis, across the channel of the Ilyssus, which could if it always had the same bed, have been but a paltry stream.

Dined in the next house, a communication being made through the wall of the widow Macri’s into the premises of a lady with three daughters.42  Tea, and evening in the room left today by Mr Galton – very comfortable.

The view of the Parthenon from the road from Munychia very advantageous, as the ravages of time are at that distance not to be seen, and the traveller may consider himself paying a visit to Athens indeed … From the road from ye Piræus you have the same flattering view of the temple of Theseus.

Vassilly, to spite ye widow Macri, is at this time sleeping out in the yard …

Chandler,43 talking of Minerva’s prohibition to the crows to approach her temple,44 says, “Crows, I have often observed, fly about the sides of the rock, without ascending to the height of the top”.45  In the margin of Lusieri’s Chandler I see put, “J’ai vue des milles sur le Parthenon,” and so have I … the hill of the Areopagus well described and placed by Chandler – his statue of Isis now quite defaced.46  Lusieri told me the water was not good in the fountains hard by – also mentioned by Chandler.47

Sunday December 31st 1809

Up eleven.  Walked out to the east of the Acropolis, to where the Ilyssus and Eridamus join.48  Afterwards farther on, into some olive trees, to a convent and church of St Michael, one mile and a half perhaps from ye city.  Two capitals of Corinthian columns in the chapel.  Returned back under the hill of Anchesmus, where is the monastery of St George.  Two white pillars erected by a Turk as the sign of his having made a good shot at a target from one to the other.  Afterwards rode out with Byron, taking the same road, but going about four miles farther.  The country plain, but stony and uncultivated, with the sweet-smelling low herb.49  Came in sight of a town in the grounds at the front of Mount Pentele,50 crossed up a hill north-west, and got to the other side of it into a path in olive grounds leading to Athens, having Anchesmus now on left (east) of returning to the city, through the same gate by which we at first entered it.  Fine road, comparatively.

Dined, and during dinner received a letter from ye freethinking bishop of Livadia.51

N.B.: the juncture of the Eridamus and Ilyssus nothing but a puddle formed in two rents or chasms in the soil as they appear now

Wrote this in 1810, thirty-five minutes past twelve.

The abr52 a small church just above ye juncture – – –––––

Monday January 1st 1810

Up late.  Walk out to Anchesmus, but the wind so high could not ascend the hill.  Afterwards walked round the walls of the city at a common pace, making up for the climbing part near the castle53 by going a little faster than ordinary.  Walking in forty-seven minutes, began where we entered, at the gate from Thebes.  Saw a Corinthian capital and column – a little way beyond this gate formerly was a church, now pulled down.54

No meat for dinner today.55

The initiated in the Eleusis Mysteries56 forbidden the eating of red mullet, which we have found the best food here.  Nicias, trying to persuade the Athenians against the Sicilian expedition, tells them that news would be four months reaching them (so says Goldsmith, but I don’t find it in Thucydides)57 – the Piræus is exceedingly small in this shape.  [sketch]

Tuesday January 2nd 1810

Up eleven.  Walked out to the Academy,58 about twenty minutes from the gate leading to Thebes – a rising piece of stony ground with no remains of any kind – the gardens of Athens beyond it.  Here I walked to the river Cephissus, a rapid ditch stream, twenty minutes farther over, not appearing so large, as much of the water had been turned off into the gardens and olive grounds.  A large garden let for twenty-five piastres per annum.  Olive trees watered in this way twice a year.  Saw a short pillar with an inscription lying by a garden gate, where was a marble mouth to a well, worn with ropes on every side.

Pelopidas besieged Orchomenos with an army [of] 800 foot [and] forty horse.59

To bed twelve.

Wednesday January 3rd 181060

Up eleven.  Walked out to Philoppapus’ monument and back by the back (south) of the Acropolis.  Afterwards, rode out to the Academy past the Cephissus, and rode through olive grounds into a plain beyond, under the hills to west of Athens.  Returned, galloping, over a bridge across the little muddy stream.

Dinner – woodcock and lurdi.61  Wrote grammar tonight.62  Slow progress.

This Zantiote regiment the cause of rumours of wars, bungled as usual by the Inglese.63  Mr Lusieri called today – tells that Mr Fauvel64 has got the body and remaining wheels of his cart.65

Thursday January 4th 1810

Up eleven.  Walked out into the town to the house of Demetrius.66  Shown specimens of saints, one particularly, St Demetrius, on horseback, for which Hope67 offered him fifty zechins.  Walked under the hill this side (north) of the Areopagus.  Saw there a fountain – proceeded through the gate of the city to a road towards Eleusis.  There saw, in a quarter of a mile, a ravine that had been hollowed to get stone for the city, a well that had been discovered about two years, a yard and a half in diameter, of brick, neatly joined, with regularly-placed holes for steps down to the water.  Strolling through the city this day, amongst other remains and memorials of things that have ceased to exist.

Saw, over the gate of a house formerly occupied by the French Consul, a plaster model of Liberty, with her cap &c., and La Republique Française engraved round the rim.68  Saw today, under the remains of the porch of the old market place, the city weights and measures marked on a stone as regulated in the time of Adrian.  Here are two large columns – over the doors of some houses may be still seen small marbles with figures of processions.  One I observed of a man in a chair of the modern make [sketch].  Rode out with Byron across the Cephissus on the road to Eleusis through the olive grounds.

Dined, &c.  Demetrius told me today scandalous tales of Lusieri – of his living in a house with two young girls under pretence of going to marry one of them, &c.

Friday January 5th 1810

Up eleven.  Did nothing this day but dine with Lusieri, who gave us some Cerigo wine, very like Cephalonian.  Read Goldsmith’s History of Greece: “all the appendages of a king are respectable except his courtiers”.69

To bed two.  Disturbed by the Xtians knocking at the doors to rouse the folk to church tomorrow, being Xmas day old style.70

Saturday January 6th 1810

Up half-past eleven.  Called on Lusieri, who showed me his representation of Joannina71 and one or two other sketches, most admirable and minute.

He told me a tale of Ali Pacha72 – the wife of his own Mochtar73 one day appearing very melancholy before him was after repeated solicitations brought to confess that the occasion of her grief was the diminution apparent in her husband’s affection towards her.  Being pressed a little more closely by the Vizier, she also hinted that Mochtar had been estranged from her by the charms of certain Greek ladies of the city.  Ali insisted on knowing who and how many there were.  The sick lady gave him a list of fifteen, the most beautiful brides of Epirus, and the Vizier, in order to put a stop for this time to the irregularities of his son, ordered them instantly to be seized, which command was obeyed, and, each being tied in a sack with a stone round it, was thrown through a hole in the corner of the Seraglio into the lake of Ioannina.

Another fair lady, Zofremi,74 was disposed of in the same manner.  It was her misfortune to be the flame of Ali and his son Veli.  The Vizier one day observed on her finger a ring that had been a present of his to the favorite wife of Veli.  He wanted no other evidence of his having a rival, or of that rival being his son, and the unfortunate Zofremi was sacked and drowned.  The inhabitants of Ioannina remark that the fish of their lake are neither wholesome nor pleasant to the taste.

But the Vizier is now growing religious and the fish will be better.

The rich men of Ioannina do not even dare to take an airing on horseback without leave, lest it should be suspected that they are going to decamp with their treasures.  From Alexis the son of the Greek who was most instrumental in assisting the entrance of the Vizier into Joannina, Ali takes yearly 250 purses [of] piastres, 500 each.

Lusieri also mentioned a singular superstition of the Greeks.  They consider that the antique statues in Greece are men and women enchanted by some magician, and that they will at some future time recover their pristine form.  Some men employed in loading my Lord Elgin’s marbles a few days past, refused to put one of the chests on board, saying that it was an Arabin,75 or had a spirit within, and some Greeks who conveyed two busts to Captain Leake declared they heard the Arabin groan and scream most piteously within them.  Some of these statues, they say, have been heard to bewail at leaving their friends and fellow marbles in the Acropolis.76  In the well of Lusieri’s house there is also an Arabin.

Cold with a little rain.

Sunday January 7th 1810

Up half-past twelve.  Rode out about two miles on ye road to the south-east by south, passing by the pillars of Jupiter Olympadus,78 crossed the bed of the Ilyssus, came in a quarter of a mile to where the bed of another river joins it – is this the Eridamus?79  Came in half a mile to the bed of another torrent coming from Hymettus, which is now covered with snow, as are also all the mountains, particularly Parnes,80 that over which we came from Thebes.  The winter has set in apparently about five days, the cold being miserable, but perhaps only comparatively so, even in the middle of the day.  Returned.  See in Pausanias that Calippus has written a history of the Orchomenians.81  It seems to me to give a certain magnitude, amongst other circumstances, to the notions we have of Grecian affairs, that their distances were reckoned by stadias, eight of which make a mile.82

By Pausanias it should seem that there was a river called Dirce.83  Wheler talks of travelling up the Tromenus to its fountain;84 this the Thebans call Dirce, and is really only ten minutes walk from the city.

Monday January 8th 1810

Up twelve.  With Mr Lusieri, paid a visit to the Acropolis.  The propylæa or gates, five of them seen at entrance, but filled up with stones the gate of entrance now.  Just where it was anciently, pillars of the Parthenon double with relievos on the frieze, above capitals of the second row.  This before you get into the temple – in the temple you see the door entering it, but not so large as formerly, the ancient marble pavement with pillars to the right (south) but all thrown down to the left.  Immense masses of columns scattered about.85  On the right, the fading vestiges of the daubings of the Greek church.86  Come to the mosque in the middle, then ye place where was the altar of the ancient Greek church, then the columns of the other front of the temple, from the east side of which Lord Elgin has pulled down the relievos.87  All in ruins, but the immense Doric columns that still stand (specimens of the [  ] of the marble lying about).

When the Turks want lead, they disjoint a part of the marble structures and find the object of their search in the juncture of the marbles.  During the time that Lusieri was away, on account of the short war, nearly half of the south wall of the temple of Erectheus [was] pulled down.

Passing to the north side of the temple of Minerva, came to the remaining pillars of the temple of Erectheus and Neptune.88  The most beautiful Ionic on a smaller scale, but in high preservation – one has been taken whole by Lord Elgin.  At the south back of this, the pillars, on the same scale of Minerva Polias, but between the pillars filled up with stone, a powder magazine being made of the inner part.  Coming round this temple, a powder-house on the west part.  Again see statues of virgins in the wall.  Lord Elgin has one of these.  The place filled up with white plaster n the west side of Minerva Polias.  On the plaster wall, this scrawl:

This part, though not so stupendous as the Temple Parthenon, more exquisitely striking.  Beautiful views all round from the Acropolis.  From the back of Minerva Polias, on the Pollogame, the best of the present city, which seems as in a picture beneath.  From a battery to the west, a view of the fine plain and olive grounds to the Piræus.  The day particularly favourable, being bright sunshine and all the mountains round capped with snow, the plains green, and the sea calm.

Visited the young governor90 in a shabby room in the Acropolis.  Learn that the pay of his soldiers, or castriotes, is ten piastres per annum, and he himself, to whom we had before sent a present of tea and sugar, if we are to trust to Lusieri, is a poor beggar,91 asking another present for the approaching Bairam.92

In the Acropolis, 120 soldiers and twenty-seven cannon, about seven serviceable.

Rode afterwards with Byron to the stadium, which appears larger on a second inspection.

Tuesday January 9th 1810

Up eleven.  Walked out.  Visited the cave of Pan93 in the north side of the hill of the Acropolis, small and not deep.  Walked up into the castle yard on the south side the theatre of Atticus Herodes,94 preserving its shape with some few rows of seats on the west side.  The diameter on the chord of the arc eighty-two paces in breadth – the remains not marble.  This is just on the right hand, going in to the first gate of the castle – refused admittance at the inner gate before the prophylæa, so walked down again towards the Olympian temple, where waited for horses and Demetrius.  A Turk shepherd explained to me the use of the many flat circular pieces of pavements to be seen in Greece – they are used for the treading out of corn, which is done by eight or ten horses in a row, the innermost being tied with a cord to a stake, which is driven into the centre of the circle, and the whole being driven over the sheaves as they lie on the ground – this I have seen in Spain.  Most of the wells in Athens are hot in winter and cold in summer, but the water of many is unpleasant, having a smack of salt – see what Chandler says about this,95 and the well of the Acropolis at certain times giving the sound of the waves of the sea.96

Rode out over the country towards the sea to the south-west.  A down, with the low, sweet-smelling plant, to a house in ruins, where are bee stands, and a lion in marble.  Turned towards Munychia, and returned to Athens through the vineyard.  At several points from this point towards the sea, all the pillars of the Parthenon appear in a line, the angle not being seen, and the rock not appearing, you may imagine yourself approaching old Athens.

After dinner, wars and rumours of wars.  The marbles seized, and Fletcher frightened.97  To bed, one.

Wednesday January 10th 1810

Up as usual.  Called on Lusieri, who is determined not to stir abroad in the sun for twenty-five days.98  Rode with Byron to the Piræus.  Insulted by a renegado Spaniard99 on our way over to the Idriote ship.100  Returned without going on board, and immediately complained to the Waiwode of our Spaniard, who was afterwards bastinadoed with about fifty strokes on his feet in Fletcher’s presence.101  The man flung his shoes in some bystander’s face, but afterwards roared most abundantly and shit his breeches.102  The Waiwode continued smoking his pipe most calmly, in spite of music and stench.103  His master, for he was a slave, wished to kill him, but was prevented, but the man is to be sold outright.  Both feet are bastinadoed at once, the man being thrown on his back and his feet bound together to a pole fixed upright in the ground.  A captain who had been employed in the bastinado (done with sticks about three parts of an inch in diameter, one man having a bundle of them in his hands), came afterwards and took a pipe and a present with us.  To bed two.  Fine weather.

Thursday January 11th 1810

Up ten.  Had my head shaved most judiciously by a Turkish barber, and put on a black velvet cap and a handkerchief over it, turban-fashion.  Walked to Lusieri’s.  Rode to Piræus again with Byron, and went on board the Idriote, a large fine-built Italian ship with a good cabin, thirty-five men.  Returned, dined on woodcocks, of which, and red mullet104 here, there is great quantity.  Lusieri called in the evening.  To bed one.  Fine sunshine weather.

Friday January 12th 1810105

Up very late.  Called on Lusieri.  Rode out with Byron to the Academy and the Colonnus Hippius,106 the site of these two being two little eminences not far from each other across the Cephissus, or a little one-arched bridge and some way on the road to Thebes by which we came.  About a mile beyond the bridge, the view of the extensive plain to the north and north-east opens upon you.  Returned dined, &c., and had presents of sweet cakes made of sugar and almonds and rose water brought in, this being New Year’s Eve, by Teresa, the girl of twelve years old but, quite nubila, from ye other house.107  The Idriote afraid to take us in our projected tour to the Islands.  Fine warm weather in the middle of the day, but the snow on the hills.  I learn that generally in this time of the year there are three weeks about of fine weather after the falling of the first snows.

Saturday January 13th 1810

Up eleven.  Went out on horseback with Byron and Signor Demetrius.  Took the road leaving the Academy to the right, through the olive grounds, then up the ascending plain under the low range of hills north and south to the west of Athens, till we got into the road through these hills, and then, in a short time, turned to the left a little (ye south), coming to a monastery, romantically situated with a high rugged hill on ye left (south), and groves of fine trees.  The vista straightforward, opening upon the sea or Gulf of Eleusis, with the mountains of [the] Peloponnesus in the [distance].  Passed over (twenty minutes) downwards close [to] this narrow vale to the water side, and then turned directly to the right (north), coming full upon a large circular basin of sea, looking like a lake, with Eleusis opposite to the west, at the other end of the chord of the arc.

The entrance from the sea not being easily discovered, Salamis closing up the mouth of the Gulf (lying west and east).  Crossed the short passage of stony road at the foot of the rocks close to the water, called Kake Scale,108 then passed on the sand by the enclosure of salt water made by a low wall.  The vents turn two miles at a little distance from each other.  Passed over several streams of salt water (see about these – called Rhiti)109 that come from and flow to this gulf.

Passed on, at a further distance from the water through a fine level plain, till turning to the left by degrees, came to Eleusis,110 situated in a noble spot not quite close to the sea, with a little hill behind it, on which are the remains of a tower, wall, and some bits of ancient wall.  Standing on this hill with your face to the east, towards Athens, you have the fine plain extending to your left with olive groves to the north-west, on the brows of the sloping hills that lead to Megara, and one small village peeping through the trees.  On the north side, behind, are the mountains of the Isthmus, now covered with snows) – to the right is the gulf or bay, enclosed by Salamis in the mouth of it, with a little island close before it, and to the south-west the mount of the Peloponnesus.  Before you is the low range of hills, across which is the road to Athens, and the back of Xerxes’ seat.111  Eleusis now is a small Albanian village, thirty houses, with no remains but some immense and entire fragments of fluted marble pillars and walls, the site of the temple, in the middle of the village close to which is the spot where the Cambridge Ceres was dug up.112  There fragments lie in a small space.  I observed part of one immense marble vase, and a piece of marble with the basso relievo of a Triton on it.

In the wall of the church there is also the capital of an Ionic pillar.  Two inscriptions were also shown us, one a small stone in a house, and another on a piece of marble that appears to have been a pedestal.  The first I had copied off by a man on the spot,113 and have got the paper.

The sacred fountain, if such it has been, is but small.

This must be a good place for digging, from the specimens to be seen above ground.  In the plain extending from the village to the waterside are small upright stones standing, and crossing the plain in many pieces from the north-west hills are the remains of the aqueduct.  At this place got some coins.  Returning by the salt mills and dam, saw a cave (Antiope),114 but without a water and small.  Returned by moonlight.

N.B. It is generally reckoned between four and five hours to Eleusis, though the road, except from the monastery to the port of Kake Scale, is good, and the plain of Eleusis most noble; but we performed the route there in one hour and a quarter, leaving the Surgee115 behind, and whipping on the horse of the ham-y-galled Demetrius, who cried, and swore, and threatened, and petitioned in vain.  Coming back, we were a little longer, the horse of Demetrius tiring,116 and he being obliged to mount that of the Surgee.

At the monastery, which I take to be about half way between Athens and Eleusis, turning in to the pass of the hills and coming back close to κακη σκαλη, we saw a marble pillar in [a] wooden trough, placed here by ye English for conveyance from thence.

Dined, and afterwards went to Byron’s house for dancing and buffoonery, where there was a Greek fiddler and a tambouriner, monotonous Greek music, and slow dancing, the long false hair in the braided tails of the women coming over their own, combed down their backs.  Their pellice of satin and fur; their money, bracelets, their zones clasped below the navel coming loose over the hips with immense circular pieces of worked silver – they having at the same time a waist in the Frank fashion under the breasts (N.B. this is an ancient custom).117

Sunday January 14th 1810

Up twelve.  Rode out with Byron to the monastery of Daphne118 where we were on the road yesterday.  Nothing to be seen there, but the situation, which is picturesque in the extreme, with the very high hill in the distance, and the forked hill sighted just over Eleusis.  Road west-north-west.  The range of hills which we crossed from Thebes (Parnes) and a continuation of which we go through to Eleusis running north-north-east and south-south-west.  In this only one despot119 resides, and he was at Athens, or, as the peasant who had the key said, “εις Το χοριο”.120  Here is a church with a cupola rather higher than ordinary, on the concave of which is a large Jesus Christ with his eyes put out by bullets.121  From the wall of Daphne, Lusieri got two fine Ionic columns.

Came back, dined.  &c.  Fine sunny day.

Monday January 15th 1810

Up eleven.  Rode out by the road to Aigios Asomatos, the monastery which I had seen before, and continued going on to the village, Perivole or Angelo Kipos,122 where there are some houses and gardens.  Then on the road to Mount Pentele to the village not far from ye foot of the mountain (Callandoge) where we turned to the left, and rode across towards the hills of Parnes, so as to cross the foot of the range of Anchesmus.  Going about two miles over heath and scantily [ ] land, came to what appeared the bed of a river, and then to some remains of an aqueduct or bridge, with no inscription and entirely ruined.  Passing along by the side of the bed in a half mile, came to a similar remain, and soon afterwards to olive trees and a village, where we crossed over a water (perhaps Cephissus), on a narrow one-arched bridge but trough full of water, looking more like a river than anything in this country.123

Athens being again in view, rode on through olive grounds for some little way, and then came in to the plain before the city.  (Byron shot a dog in the hinder parts.)124 I do not know the distance of these places, as we went very fast and performed the whole circuit in about three hours.  (Sixty olive presses in and about the city.)  The range of olive grounds extending from the village, where we were near Pentele to the west of the Piræus.  Watered by the Cephissus.  Pentele east-north-east from Athens.

Not going in this Idriote today.125  The sky being clouded and the snow melted from Hymettus, but no rain.

Tuesday January 16th 1810

Up one.  Rode out with Byron to the monastery of St Cyriani,126 reckoned about one hour and a half from Athens.  The road to it is across the bed of one river (Ilyssus), eastward to the chasm of another (no water), on the banks of which you continue to ride, ascending a little, then passing a lonely farm and coming to olive grounds but a few trees.  Crossing the chasm and getting on the slope of Mount Hymettus, ascending till you come to the monastery enclosed by a sweep of the mountain to the north, and by the hill itself on the east, the ravine of the river, with olive trees lying in the chasm or dell beneath.  This monastery is about as far from the top of Hymettus as it is from Athens.  There is nothing to be seen in it but a church, supported to its dome by four marble ancient pillars of the             127 order.

Walked up a little above the monastery to an artificial grotto in the side of the hill.  Arched five feet wide, twelve deep and eight higher.  At the end in the side is a niche, and on the right the foundations, covered nearly into a stone, containing the water that works the miracles yearly on the feast of Panagia,128 when, as my companion the monk told me, two doves descend from heaven and play round the water (see Chandler, who says one dove).129  A priest in the monastery, he affirmed, had seen it.  Both below and above this grotto is a fountain in a large stone trough, the water most excellent (Cephalos and Procris).130

From this spot is an extensive view, but Athens is not seen.  Walked along the side of the hill to the west to a ruined chapel of St Marco,131 where the monks of the monastery are laid, i.e. buried, from whence is the most advisable spot for a view.  Athens with its plain above and its plain below, its ports Salamis and Ægina, the mountains of Morea, the long range of olive groves, and the hills to the west of the plain, all appearing as in a picture, whilst the foreground is furnished out most picturesquely by the collines132 of Hymettus to the right and left …

Returned.  The weather today warm with a little rain, the sky cloudy, the snow melted from the nearer mountains.

Wednesday January 17th 1810

Up late.  Rode out with Byron and took the ride of Monday last, except not going quite, only setting out as far as Callendri133 as we returned, and returning as we set out, by Angelo Kipos and Anchesmus to the right.  This day saw other remains of the antiquity mentioned in journal of that day, which, it seems is an aqueduct of Adrian’s for the new city of Athens; but there appears to have been two branches to the north end of it, as two of the remains in the bed of a river are nearly parallel, one being about a half mile above the other.  The line of the water was from the north end of Mount Pentele to the west end of Anchesmus.

Rain hard all last night, but this day most warm and sunshiney.  The range of Hymettus is from west-north-west to east-south-east, turning towards the shore more to the east …

This and the two preceding days have been the Bairam (ye second in the year)134 of the Turks, and there has been firing of guns from the castle, and fireworks the first day besides drumming, &c., and a squeaky kind of pipe.  Today also ye Xtians are fiddling for the Epiphany,135 and doubtless the modern, like the ancient Greeks, would find life too long and burthensome were it not for their religious festivals, which are celebrated much in the same manner – with music and dancing …

Thursday January 18th 1810

Up ten.  Read a poem of Byron’s.136

Rode out with said Byron to the Piræus, but took the path over the hill just above the monastery137 to the east of the harbour, and went completely round the promontory which contains Munychia and Phalerum, following the walls, of which here is scarcely ten yards, but some large stones appear.  In making the circuit of the Munychian walls at a quick foot pace I was about one hour, and in going round the promontory including the Phalerum, one hour and twenty minutes.  The entrance into the inner harbour of Piræus exceedingly narrow, with the remains of the pier (a circular) on each side.  Two small rocks besides are above water in this narrow mouth.  The harbour is north-west to south-east, the line across the narrow mouth, west to east.  Going round to the eastward, on the promontory there are four small bays.  Above the second (which is opposite to Ægina) are many barrows – the eastern side of the third has the most perfect remains of the wall, the fourth has a precipice surrounding it.  The port Munychia138 is of a circular form, several remains of walls running into the water, and two pieces of pier at each end of the arc, the chord of which is very small.  The direction [is] south to north.  I could not trace the walls except down to the eastern pier of Munychia.  The land above Phalerum is high and rocky, and going to it on the cliff between it and Munychia is a curious excavation in an upright stone with a porch, and the facings of a door and cornice, but fading fast away.  Phalerum is of an arch form, the remains of the piers at the narrow entrance being also apparent.

One solitary skiff was moored under the hill.139  Its direction is from east to west, the length of the oval being from north to south.  There is high land on the north-east side of this port till you come to the fine sweep of the bay stretching to the north-east, on which we rode till we came to that part of it where the sea comes nearest to Athens, and then turned up amongst the marshy grounds through the olive trees, and so home.

This was a most delightful ride, and the opposite side of the large bay is of a lovely green, with a lovely church.  The part of the sea nearest to the city is south-south-east from it.  Looked for the tomb of Themistocles.140  In Munychia (which by the way is rocky in the extreme) on the west above the port is a remain; some large stones in a small square with a piece of large pillar.

Friday January 19th 1810

Set off with Vassilly, Demetrius, two baggage horses, two led horses and two surgees, for a tour in Attica.  At half past eleven, took ye road directly south, crossing the bed of the Ilyssus.  In an hour, came to a few regularly placed large stones, and barrows (perhaps Lyceum).141  In another hour, after turning a little more to the left (east), came to more large stones and barrows and a well, Hymettus, which diminishes in height towards the sea, running south-south-east for the last hour.  The road to the east-south-east through uneven, stony ground, thinly covered with firs and pines, the promontory formed by Hymettus stretching out to the right about three miles.  Arrived at three o’clock at Vary, a farm (metochi),142 belonging to the monks of <Pentopolus> Agios Asomatos (near the ancient site of Venus in the gardens).  Here are five houses, at the best of which lives the occasional caloyer.143

Hence we set out to visit the cave of Archidamus,144 where we arrived riding through woody knolls and climbing a hill, near the top of which is this curiosity northwards from Vary.  It is not very easy to find.  You descend into it by means of three tree branches on the first landing-place; in the cave two apertures, one to ye left a little precipitous, ye other to the right down an easy descent.  Here the fire is lighted – above this place are letters.  On ye left hand immediately is what looks like a lion’s head, carved rudely and disfigured: going downwards you have petrifactions145 on all sides, but one representing a small entire pillar supporting the roof on ye right hand peculiarly striking.  [The] cave turns to the left, but at the bottom is a small spring of water.  You turn upwards to the left aperture, and on ye left, on the side of the rock, see the rude bas-relief of a figure large as life, apparently looking one way and walking the other.

Above this figure, and on ye right side of it, are large carved letters (write my name and Byron’s just above the nose,147 where saw “Hamilton”148 in pencil).  Going upwards towards the entrance, an oval niche with small steps to it, but on the right a headless statue in a chair (Ceres)149 considerably mutilated, with writings on the stone between it and the niche – several petrifications formed into more natural figures than those artificial representations.  The peasant who conducted us in this place pointed out another inscription, which, upon looking, I found to be “Fauvel” – “Foucherot”,150 cut very deeply into the stone above the Ceres.  The peasant thought them antiques.  Got out through the left aperture by some artificial steps, returned through the fine pine woods, crossing the bed of a torrent a view of Cape Zoster, the Cape formed by the projection of Hymettus, and the Cambo Nisia or “Button Islands”.  Also to the left, at the utmost distance, another promontory, Katapheke, with an island high land close to it, Gaidaronese.

Returned.  Dined on lamb – delightful.  Moonlight night.  Walked out on the long corn floor constructed on a terrace just above our cottage, the island seen at a distance that of St George.  Drizzling rain today, but warm.

Saturday January 20th 1810

Walked out towards the bay a little below the village over some cultivated land, till got amongst bushes, where saw the evident remains of a town.  Three small marble columns without capitals, in a triangular disposition, and large marble or circular trough (basin) and marble fountain.  At Vary, by the small church, is the battered remain of a marble lion with the legs of a man astride him on two marbles, with carving above them on each side of the church door these letters:

Went into ye church and took thence a staff on which the worshippers lean, in lieu of making use of chairs during their long service [sketch].152  Left Vary at a little past twelve.  Road for an hour south-south-east through pine woods, then entered the hilly grounds.  Turning east-south-east through pine woods in half an hour (meeting large droves of small oxen belonging to the farm at Vary),153 came to where was a large plain extending to the northwards and Ennea Pyrgœ (Anapplytus).  Ruined square towers a mile out of the road.  Went there and found nothing.  Saw the large village of Marcopoli, on the slope of rising ground before.  At some distance rejoined the baggage at a small village, Xalima Konvara; direction then south-east.  No trees, but cultivated plain.  In half an hour, came to the head of a large plain, a village, Kouvara, being on the hill to the left.  Mountains, called Parne, running parallel on the right, and at three, another half hour, arrived at Keratea, a town of Albanians with about 150 houses, where there are two or three rich peasants, they being themselves the possessors of the soil and not renters, as at Marathon and many other places, paying half their profit to their landlords.

Before dinner I ascended on foot some height up the hill behind the village.  Had a view of the old Euboea.  Long Island Macronise, and other islands to the south-east.  Coast of Attica runs north-north-west to south-south-east, Hymettus east-north-east to west-south-west.  Attica very narrow here, and stony, indeed, the general returns of grain in Attica give five and six, never more than ten for one, whereas in the Negroponte, twenty is often procured.

Lodged in the Cogia Bassa’s, a large arched mud-floored room.  Fine day.

Sunday January 21st 1810

Bad weather – up late.  Walked154 out, with Demetrius and an old fellow as a guide, up the mountain Parne.  Came to a cave155 in ye south side of it near the summit.  Lighted fir torches and entered – choice of paths to the right and left.  Emerged at once, after creeping through a narrow hole, into a splendid dome of crystals, very high, divided into several chambers by pillars of spar.

Wandered from one to another, till we came to a fountain of pure water.  Loitering by this spring in admiration of the magnificent scene, determined to make the best of the way out, as the torches began to waste, but after exploring this labyrinth again a short time, found ourselves again at the fountain side, where the old guide confessed that he had forgot the intricacies of these caverns.  However, just as the last fir stick was consuming, we saw light,156 and taking a baton that I observed in the ground, I laid about our conductor’s back,157 and returned thanks for our exit from this cave, where we must have perished, as I find on enquiring at the village that there are within it a thousand chambers with suites of subterranean apartments which they believe to extend through the centre of the mountain to their village.  Let this be as it will, it certainly is so large and curious that you can hardly fail to lose yourself in five minutes.  From this cave some persons (called Inglese) have taken home loads of spar.158

Returning down the hill, as it rained very hard, went into a monastery, or rather farm with a church to it, dedicated to St John.  Here saw a cave with a fountain in it, the water distilling in perpetual drops from the cell of the grotto.  (From this Mount Parne may be seen, Colonni, and the next western promontory, Katapheke.)

Dined on pig, sucking roasted whole.  Very good, but Fletcher had forgot to put up any mustard into the canteen – thus it is!! “medio de fonte”159 &c.

Monday January 22nd 1810

My friend Byron’s birthday – “πολλοι νγ ευδυχοι.”160  Rained without ceasing all day, so did nothing but listened to some tales and songs of Demetrius.  I asked him how he came to be able to talk Albanian,161 and he told me that in his youth, about fifteen years ago, there was a tyrannical governor of Athens162 who by his exactions (in the which, by the way, he was much assisted by Signor Logotheti,163 his sole friend) caused a recession of almost half the population of Athens to the villages of the country, where, like the plebeians on the Aretine hill,164 they continued for three years (at least he did) till this Aga was removed, to Rhodes first, and then afterwards Constantinople, where he was beheaded.  This man built the large house in the gardens and planted the thick olive ground, near the site of the ancient academy.

To bed, after seeing dancing by the several females of the family.

Tuesday January 23rd 1810

Up before sunrise.  Set out half-past nine for Cape Colonni.  Took first of all the road south-south-east from the village, but then turned the foot of the hill running from behind Keratea (Parnes) to this place.  Barren, uncovered ground.  Here two paths, one south to Therico west-south-west to Katapheke.  Continued by the back of Parne, taking direction more to south-west and south-south-west, over woody eminences, till we came to a plain, terminated by a bay with a cape and a small island to the west, marshy with a torrent course.

Turning south-south-east, with the sea a short time in sight, went over many a rocky hilly path till came to Katapheke, a village of a few huts, giving the name to the promontory.  Reckoned four hours from Keratea, but we were, and forty minutes.165  Only road afterwards over woody hills, a metochi in the midst of the wildest scenery.  High, precipitory wood-covered hills running east and west (here ought to be Laureum).  Turning more southward along the course of a dried river, got near the seashore – eastward again, and climbing a small precipice, had the first view of the columns and the cape.  Continued riding up, and from the uneven coast above the sea – here till reached Colonni,166 twelve o’clock.  Just before coming to Colonni, path along a bay with a rock in the west side of it.  Sea a little swelled, tumbling on the shelves of rocks which compose it with a loud murmur.167

Pass up to the site of the columns by a steep but not very long ascent.  First you see a piece of ancient wall, a row of fourteen in height large stones, and then come to the temple of Minerva Sunias,168 which almost occupies the whole level ground on this promontory.  The remains are nine columns of white marble169 (Doric order), twenty-seven feet high, besides the capitals fronting the sea west-north-west to east-south-east.  Three towards the land on the north, and three, one being square, next to the corner column, to the sea on the east side.  Between the columns the distance is a little more than five feet.  One column only is wanting to complete the eastern front, which is on a line with the eighth column of the south front.  The columns are in circumference two yellow handkerchiefs.  On the east we saw Macronese close to the land running south-south-west to north-north-east.  Beyond this sea, then Thermia, then Sipho, all low land.

Lying in a line southwards in the sea, at [a] distance, was Isle St George, and to the west, very near the promontory of Katapheke and the rocky island Gaidaronisi, the view on the land side is terminated very soon by high and abrupt mountains.  Colonni is a rock precipitous, but not inaccessible nor very high.  It bears a singular resemblance to the picture in Faulkner’s Shipwreck,170 though to be sure that is but a fancy piece in Boccage’s view for Anacharsis.171  The temple is just wrongly placed.  There is another craggy steep neck of land stretching out to south-south-east from the east side of the prmonontory.

Staying in this cape an hour and a half, set out northwards by the eastern coast of Attica, not keeping quite close to the sea, but going over woody and hilly road.  However, came near to a bay or port, passing by the wells called, as is the port, Passa Pegathia,172 and in an hour to Gaidaromandra, a large double port with horns projecting far on each side.  The largest, most southerly port, has direction south-west to north-east.  The small one, whose entrance is only a few yards, over a sandy bar east to west.  The hills come near the sea.  From this port in a short time (three miles perhaps) we came to Panorma, between which place and Gaidoromandra are the shafts of the ancient silver mines173 in a small shrubby plain.  This port is large and open mouthed, the southern cape extending farther into the sea than the northern, and behind it is a salt marsh.  Its direction is east to west.

In half an hour or little more, came to Therico, not passing close to the sea (and not seeing a port there is called Agastirachia).  Also a large open port, direction east-north-east to west-south-west, and having opposite to it, as indeed have all the aforementioned ports, Macronise.  From this port we struck into the plain stretching on the west north-west and north, and saw, in some bushes, large fragments of marble pillars, and on a little stone eminence to the north near them, a piece of ancient wall.  Went north-west.  Came to a village of a few huts, then went north-north-west through a pass in the hills, and came to some extent of ground covered with cinders (see Chandler).174  Went on till arrived again at the foot of the hill of Keratea, by the path which we had left to our left in the morning, and got into the same road by which we had set out, for the last half hour, arriving at the village [at] half-past four.

The circuit we took this day is accorded twelve hours – and in this large tract of country we saw only three small villages and one solitary farm – in all, not thirty houses.  On the mountains, before we arrived at Colonni near Katapheke, observed a great quantity of white marble.

Pig for dinner.  At night, after we had been some time in bed, our old host entered with lights and wine, very drunk and ridiculous.  His wife soon followed with the Surgee, also tipsy.  The house was soon raised, and all the family set dancing for some hours.  I had a rash and could not sleep, even after they were gone, for itching.

Fine day.  Sunium is called by Euripides175 Σουνιον, the rich rocks of Sunium.

Wednesday January 24th 1810

At twelve (by my watch) set out for Port Raphti between which and Therico there are these ports (as my host told me) from Therico: first Vrïsaki – then Turkolimima, three, Thascalio, four, Kakethalapa.  Inside of these the Peloponnesian fleet anchored (Lib 8 and 95).176  Road east and north-east over a cultivated plain for half an hour, then turned north-east amongst hills, and in an hour, view of port Raphti through a vista formed by high and woody mountains.  Wound down the steep hills, till came to a torrent bed and a few huts made with boughs.  Keeping on by this torrent through pine woods, came to the sea in a little less than two hours.

Raphti is a double port called the little [Raphti] the first you come to, and [then] the great Raphti.  On the south extremity is a peninsular neck of land, with a high hill just above that, which may be seen at a great distance.  Very clear at Marathon.  Towards this side also is a rocky high island with a colossal figure upon it, which we saw very plain.177  The direction of this little, or rather lesser, Raphti is east-north-east to west-south-west, and towards the northern side of it is also a small green low island.

We rode along the shore, and saw a large dun wolf galloping slowly through the bushes to the left.178  A little fishing boat that was under a small range of rocks dividing the two ports, mistaking us for Turks, put to sea, but Demetrius halloed them back, we dismounted, and fried some fish, staying there for half an hour.  Here ate a dried fish with eight legs in rings (octopodes).179  Set out again, passed along part of the shore of the larger Raphti of oval [sketch] shape and very large, then left [from] the sea and took the path north-west through grounds, beautifully wooded, with intervals of cultivation, having much the appearance of an English park or ferme ornée.180

Then we came into the plain which we had seen on our way to Keratea, where is Ennea Pyrgœ and Marcopoli, that has got a marble antique lion, and in an hour came to a small village, Kata-Vraona, belonging to ye monastery of Pentele, and shortly after to another, Apano-Vraona, in the same fine country, with Hymettus ranging on the left the high tops of Ozea (Parnes) in the distance, and Pentele before us.

Turned north, coming into the very extensive plain of Sultan Spatha, a village which we saw to our left, and passed through another village belonging to it, and inclining north-north-east, struck into woods again, Pentele to the left and a range of rocks to the right.  Direction some time north-east, then north.  When ascending some hilly ground, had the first view of the plains and coast of Marathon.181

Five o’clock, travelled under the range of Pentele at some distance from the shore, through barren ground.  From this entrance the plain appears be largest under the hills to the north, and the promontory of Rhamnus stretching out towards you forms a very fine bay to this northern part of the plain, which immediately strikes you at a distance as having been the scene of action.  Indeed, not knowing the situation, I travelled on to the village directly before us with that idea, and was quite ignorant that we were then riding over the spot we had come to see.

We saw two ranges of miserable huts, one in the level on the left, with a ruined tower, and the other on the right, on a brow of a small eminence.  We crossed the river and went to the latter twenty minutes to seven, together with our baggage, which we had overtaken, though it had gone the direct road from Keralea by Marcopoli.  Here we were both ill182 and went to bed dinnerless.

Before I went to sleep, read the little that Anacharsis says of the battle183 and Pausanias of the place.184  Was not disturbed by the neighing of his spectre horses nor the clashing of arms nightly heard in his time on the plain.185  Fine day.

Thursday January 25th 1810

From a hillock a little before our range of cottages, took a fresh view of the plain of Marathon, and found by looking into Anacharsis that the scene of action was in the plain that runs south and not in that ranging from east to west on my left.  This plain is of a narrow appearance, but long, perhaps ten miles, or it may be better called a strip of coast, bounded by a range of Mount Pentele, that extends south and north from the south end nearly to within a mile and a half of the village.

Looking from this hillock the only large object in the plain is a single barrow186 directly south, and nearly forming an object between the distant abrupt running of the mountain of Port Raphti and the village.  Directly it takes a turn, however, before you, and flows west-north-west till it is lost in the marshes near the seashore.  Just across this river is a low rugged hill, direction north and south, about a mile and a half in extent, and under this hill, five hundred yards from your position, is a piece of village with a ruined tower, also called Marathon.

On your left (east) you have hills running east and west, the shore and the promontory of Rhamnus (called Stome) appearing covered with woody grounds.  The large lake that extends near the promontory on the eastern plain cannot be seen from this situation, and even here the plain on this side seems more suitable for the engagement than the other.  It is no wonder then that the Persians ran into the marsh endeavouring their escape, as the nature of the ground cannot be seen.  Behind you is a narrow flat vale between the small hill above-mentioned and the mountains to the east, with the Charadrus running through it, and in what seemed to me three-quarters of a mile is another Marathon, a village with some Turk gardens, directly north, with mountains at the back also.

In Anacharsis, the plan puts the Grecian camp in the field consecrated to Hercules directly on the west (right), of any hillock; but here is no field, but the river, and the little rocky hill.  The army also are placed here where there is no position for them.187

Mounting horse from this village, proceeded into the plain to the barrow, about thirty paces in circumference, fifteen feet high, part of it cut away.188  Got upon it, then saw a flat valley running north-west from the large plain between Pentele and the small hill that I had observed close to the village.  At the west end a small village, Vraona.  This must have been the sacred portion of Hercules, and the position of the Greek forces.

From the barrow went onwards towards the seashore, and in less than a mile came to a piece of ground formed into an island by the stagnation of the torrent into a marsh.  Not large.  Close to the sea here were five pillars standing half buried in the earth, eight feet and a half long, five feet two inches in circumference, with no inscriptions.  Also a piece of square carved marble with a capital, looking like a pedestal.  Mr Fauvel189 has discovered many sepulchral relics digging here.  In a pool also in this island are the mutilated remains of an exquisite marble figure sitting in a chair, without a head.190 Chandler mentions nothing of all this!!191  The name of the torrent forming this marsh was Erasinus – Vraona – Brauron.

Returning from this place towards the northwest valley, passed by remains of a church.  Then took to the north again to our village.  Passed by it and the houses on ye left, crossed the river, which is considerable for Greece, kept along its banks for ten minutes, and came to the larger Marathon of the three, where the river winds westward.  This most probably was the site of the ancient town, as on the east side there is some room for its extent.  It looks down a vista formed by low hills on ye west (right), and higher hills on ye left, the river running straight down nearer rather to the west (right) side.  There is a view of the barrow, and beyond in the utmost distance the promontory of Cynosura, and the hill above Raphti.  Here are two pieces of ancient arch.

Passed on westward, crossing the river again, but inclined a little northwards out of the path to Athens to see the cave of Pan.  Came to it in twenty minutes from the east of Marathon, and found it in the side of a low stony hill, with two narrow mouths close to each other.  Went in at the right-hand hole, but soon came out, as I understood I must go on my knees, and as the hill itself was not so high as one of the vaulted chambers in the cave of Keratea.192  A little below this are large stones,193 and a strong spring bursting out beneath them, which turns a mill and then flows into the Charadrus.

Left this river, which flows between two high red rocky craggy mountains away to the north-west, and began ascending hills, most steep and rough.  Course west-south-west through woods of evergreens.194  Came in an hour and a quarter to Stamata, a small Albanian village with a little cultivated ground near it.  Road still very rough, but not quite so hilly.  South-west, a range of Pentele running directly facing us, north-west to south-east – Ozea (Parnes) to the right with woody knolls between us and that mountain – then, turning the point of Pentele, kept more south-south-west, and arrived in an hour through evergreen woods and better road at Cevrina, which has a mosque, plentiful water, a large tree with two broad stones, on which the Turks had cut the square of a draughts board.195  This village is one of their favourite summer retreats, three hours from Athens (see Chandler).196

Anchesmus prevents you in this place from seeing Athens, but you have a view as indeed for three miles before of the lands of the Piræus, through olive grounds to another village, and over the plain to Athens, where I found Byron had arrived about half an hour, with the baggage, having been six hours and a half on the road.197

Eucles, who ran with the account of the victory to Athens,198 must have had a most painful task to perform.  Ascending the hill from Kranea the distance is perhaps one hour less, but in no point is less than eighteen miles from Athens, the field of battle – more than half being up hills.  Dined at Todurula’s199 again and to bed as usual.

Friday January 26th 1810

Up late.  Rode out with Byron to the promontory, Colias, where a church called Tres Pyrgæ occupies the site of the temple of Venus.  Rode all along the bay of Phalerum, two miles, and returned over the marshy ground between this and the road to Piræus, and by that road home.

Dined – to bed, after Byron’s dressing up in female apparel and my dancing with Demetrius.200

Saturday January 27th 1810

Rode to Cyriani, the same road as before,201 but returned climbing between the split on the hill of Anchesmus.  Coming down the west side, the sun himself being hid from you by the rock of St George on your left, you have the most beautiful effect from the <gilding> shadows made by him amongst the long range of olive grounds and the green plains before you.  Dined – nothing – to bed.  Fine day.

Sunday January 28th 1810

Up ten.  Wrote an elaborate note to Mr Fauvel,202 who answered it by a very polite billet, concluding with perfect consideration, and rode out with Byron to Xerxes’ seat, a hill not very hill[y], called Corydallus, running down to the sea opposite Salamis.  A narrow neck of land projects from it, with a ruined tower upon it, overhanging the sea from Athens.

You take the road to the westward of the road to Piræus, and, striking into the olive grounds, continued some time riding through these groves, which are here thickly planted, and well-watered by the streams of the             203 – turned into several trenches.  You then go over a plain, ascending a little, and leave a a little eminence to the left hand.  See then large stones and wells – παλαιο.204  Onwards to the point of land.  We did not ascend the hill, nor go to the tower, but turned by a well round towards Piræus – continued over a cultivated plain, passing by some rising ground with a few trees on it, and immense stones of an ancient wall, till came to Port Draco (Piræus), in forty minutes.  Returned by the road of Piræus.  Hot fine day.

Might it not do to write an Athenian guide like a Tunbridge directory,205 with all the fine rides about, &c., in the true style?

Monday January 29th 1810

Up ten.  Went with all our retainers, Fletcher mounted,206 to visit the Castle again.  Disdar down in the mouth, &c.

Rode out to the Colian promontory, Fletcher in company, and after keeping by the seashore, which is shallow and rocky someway, got into the wood to Colonni by ascending the bed of a torrent, and returned to Athens.

Fletcher wished to have the Parthenon in England, decrying my Lord Elgin’s rapacity at the same time, saying “That he should wish for no better thing than to make his fortune by the marbles.”

(There are no two pillars of an equal thickness in the Pantheon at Rome, says Mr Parrault Nov 8. 1811.)207

Tuesday January 30th 1810

Up eleven.  Walked out with Demetrius to the Acropolis … twenty-nine pillars of the Parthenon standing in all.

Being a very hot fine day, found all the females of the town in their coloured cloaks swarming in the hills above Prynx in Coelæ,208 and over the corn-grounds towards the olive gardens and the academy.  Walking over the rocky grounds there, saw many tombs opened by Signor Lusieri, and a goat in the rock, where Demetrius told me he supposed some philosopher had chosen to study.

Returned, and, talking horse, rode out with said Demetrius to Xerxes’ throne.  Ascended that hill, where left a memorial of piled stones on the top, as there is no visible remain, and nothing on the spot to lead to conjecture, we may suppose the king anywhere, though on the first hill he has got a sufficient view of the straits.  Half-way down the second eminence he might see everything, and [any] distance.

Climbed onwards up the ridge of these stony hills, and coming to that which appeared to me the highest, had a view of Athens (east), Piræus (south-east), Ægina (south), Salamis, its bays &c., diminished towns distinctly (south-west), Megara lower down in the gulf (west-south-west), and lastly Eleusis (nearly north-west, with the gulf of Eleusis and the Spriasian plain).  Besides these, the more distant prospect took in the capes of the Peloponnesus, the mountains of the Isthmus, and all the hills of Attica, together with the long northern promontory that stretches into the sea next to Colonni.

Descended from this hill with some difficulty and detriment to one shoe, and galloped home, the sun setting behind Salamis.

On this hill saw more <ruind> states than the friend of Cicero,209 who, sailing in the Gulf of Ægina, besought his great patron to consider the <ruins/>destiny of kingdoms which he had seen in their ruins, and to grieve no more for his private loss.

Yesterday saw a woman sliding down the rock for male heirs.210  On a rock nearby, behind Prynx, is some curiously coloured stone, which has been conveyed abroad.

Wednesday January 31st 1810

Up ten.  went with Demetrius on horseback to the ferry of Salamis, which is about a mile above the tongue of land projecting from Coridallus, Xerxes’ throne.  A large boat with only two men.  Went above the hill after landing, and descended to a little village, eighty or a hundred houses, in Salamis – Amphelaki.  Houses there more clean, &c., than on the mainland.  Exceedingly hot and dry rock soil, without trees.  Inscriptions on stones there are particularly perfect: Διονισιος,211 son of, &c., a Salaminian.  Over the churchyard door porch, a leg – basso relievo – filling up niche in a wall of a churchground, as also a stone full of inscriptions, lying horizontally.

Left this town and proceeded westward for half an hour to the capital, Colouri, situated at the end of a bay at the other side of the island.  This a more considerable town with a few shops, and saw there a most pretty tall girl,212 who is chosen as a spouse to a man whom she is to marry in two years.  Her cap of paraws was well covered with a rim of Turkish zechins.  Cheated here by a boatmaster, who promised ten men to convey us in a boat to Ægina, but after receiving ten piastres for victualling, produced only six.  This fellow, a Greek, finding that I would not go, in the most unmoved polite manner bid me “Thank ye and good evening.”

We were accompanied on foot by one madman213 who requested Demetrius, after calling him aside, to do him the favour to plate his Madonna for him, as she being now only of wood had five times proceeded from her place and throttled him with her crown on her head (this he told me) requiring to be cased in silver by him, or threatening his suffocation.  This avaricious Panagia he had in a bag with him, which Demetrius had on his horse and remonstrated with him for giving to his charge, being a saint so difficult to manage.

Returned and got into the ferry-boat at sunset.  Were nearly an hour going over the strait.  Going through the olive-ground going home, saw the fires of the men sent to water the olive trees, which is done three times a year.  In the summer the water is bought of the garden keepers at three paraws a tree.

Got home half after eight – starlight night – [end] to a very fine hot day.  Found two Englishmen214 were here.  This evening Vasilly slaps Antoni in the chops, to the scandal of all present.

Thursday February 1st 1810

Up ten.  Rode out with Byron to the monastery of Pentele,215 between east and east-south-east from Athens, reckoned a journey of three hours.  Situated monastically in a niche, well-wooded and watered, in the mountains.  Large, with a gilded church; entrance as usual by a small iron-plated door.  Eat eggs,216 &c. there.  Set out with a servant from the convent for the marble quarries,217 at which arrived in about forty minutes over a stoney and many places a steep path, northwards from the monastery.

You come upon them suddenly – they are situated at the bottom of a precipice which has evidently been cut into its present form, that of a smooth perpendicular, two sides of a square.  The cavern is at the angle formed by these two sides.  Going into the cavern, you have immediately two small stone sheds with apertures to them [sketch] like an oven.  These are ancient, but the purpose to which they were applied does not appear.  On the right of these is a flight of three steps into two chapels cut in the rock – Xtian.  The ivy overhangs them, and from one of the windows you have a view of the extent of country beneath.

Going down the cavern, which is wide but not very high, water distils from the roof, which is of marble of the most beautiful tinge, a faint rose colour.218  Going on the right, the cave becomes more singular and picturesque, pillars and curious shapes being formed by the crystals.  At the bottom of the first part of the cave is a hole which travellers enter on their knees with a light.  This we did, and continued sliding downwards some time till we came to a flight of two steps, and got to where many names of visitants are carved on the stone.219

Below is a spring of water, and nothing curious or worth this trouble.  The cavern is not so large or beautiful as the one near Keratea.220  On a scale of the left precipice as you enter the cave is a small stone house, the former dwelling of an ascetic,221 to which now you can neither ascend nor descend the steps apparently, for there is a vestige of two or three at the bottom, having fallen off from the rock.  This hermit had a fine view of the plain of Athens to the sea, Hymettus, and the large plain on the east of that mountain.  The side of the hill Pentele itself is clothed with evergreens.  There is still something like a road to the quarries, but over very steep and unequal ground in many parts.  Two immense fragments of marble, apparently cut into the circular shape they still maintain – useless.

In the path, returned to the convent, where gave a zechin for want of change.  Athens at sunset.  The road to Pentelichus is through a country bare and stoney.  It passes first through Angele Kipos, and afterwards through the village of Callandri, then by a water-course to the beginning of the mount of the hill Pentele …

Xenophon (l. 5 descrip Greece)222 places Athens in the middle of Greece, and Greece in the middle of the world – but this has been said of Delphos also.

To bed two, talking three hours with Fletcher,223 after fine day.

Friday February 2nd 1810

Up late.  Visited by Mr Fauvel and a Mr Roque,224 who said that Athenians today were the same canaille225 as those in the times of Militiades and the other heroes whom they maltreated.  Rode with Byron towards Parnes through the olive grounds by the Academy, which has still a grove in its vicinity, notwithstanding the sacrilege of Sylla.226

Yesterday a church of St Niccolo was discovered, and all the women went with tapers in their hands to the inspection of it … Cold day, but no rain.

Saturday February 3rd 1810

Up very late.  Rode out with Byron to the olive grounds belonging to Murasse, a village on the road to Cevridia.  Turned round the foot of the mountains (Anchoresmus) and came home by the ruins of Adrian’s aqueducts, the same ride as we took before one day.  Warm day, but rain in the evening.

Tauric Chersonese produced thirty for one in grain (Strabo Geography 1311.)227

Sunday February 4th 1810

Up late.  Went a walk with Demetrius to the newly-discovered church of St Niccolo.  Found, at one aperture in the earth, several candles burning.  At another hole, saw a man entering.  Gravely told an old woman, who asked me the question, that the one where were the candles was not a church, but that the other certainly was.  We had gone only a few paces before we saw the <dwelling> lighted place dark, and the hole, before deserted, crowded with tapers.228  It appears this church was revealed by the saint to a woman who was conducted by him in broad daylight to the site of his holy dwelling,229 “Where,” said he, “I cannot live without light, so order all good Xtians to excavate the earth, and give me air”.  The hem of this woman’s garment is now kissed by all who see her.

Called on Mr Fauvel.  Saw his numerous curiosities, but one most singular of a Flora whose petticoat full of fruits is supported by an enormous penis, by which it appears that the ancients were acquainted with the sexes of plants.  He has also a most perfect sepulchral marble, containing two figures of the last adieu as usual, which is [done], as with us, by a shake of the hand.  With one line containing the name and father, and the trade, which is not customary, of the artist, and two lines of poetry under with an eulogy.  This was found at Piræus.  Another little sepulchral curiosity he has – a Silenus supporting his cup of wine on his penis.  This was found in a tomb.  He showed me also, on a vase, the figure of Charon ferrying two souls over in a boat, of exactly the same figure as the small boats, called             230 so used at this day at Constantinople.  A polite, obliging man, Signor Fauvel.

After dinner, saw a woman wedded, walking to her husband’s home with a high large cup studded with gold coins, looking, as Fletcher said, like the Fool on Plough Monday.231

No rain, but warm and cloudy.  Epaminondas had but one cloak.  Cornelius Nepos vita Epaminondæ.232

Monday February 5th 1810

Up late.  Rode with Byron to the coast beyond the promontory of Colias.  He bathed near a cave perforated by the sea.233  The stone here a sandstone.  Fine warm day.  Bad toothache, and no operators here, but a man who uses a pair of pinchers and extracts by force.234

Tuesday February 6th 1810

Up eleven.  Rode out with Byron to the low range of hills continuing from Parnes to the coast opposite Salamis – by the side of them for an hour, barren, rocky – thinly cultivated, till got into the road from Thebes to Athens, by which returned to Athens.

This day saw that the high ridge of hills properly called Parnes (Ozeia), runs east-north-east to west-south-west.  There is a valley, in which is the village of Castia, between this range and the other, of low stony barren hills, runs over north-north-east to south-south-west to the sea: M Benithia is a large village a little farther out of the mouth of this valley, and between Benithia and Cevrichia, which is easily distinguished under Pentele.  The only one with a mosque is a small village in the midst of trees – Koukouvachi.

Attica has two large plains, this in which we rode today, and that on the other side of Hymettus (the plain of Spatha).  The ridge of rocks beginning from Mount Anchesmus (St George’s rock) makes, however, a division of the west plain of Attica, but it terminates three miles about before Cevrichia and the range of Pentele.

Fine warm day, though cloudy in the morning …

Wednesday February 7th 1810

Up eleven.  Called on Lusieri.  Sent to Monsieur235 for his plan of Attica &c., and had some excuse.  So find he is going to write a book, which to be sure might have been guessed before.236  Demetrius is a sad booby, and is praised by everybody, his talents being envied by no-one.237

Thursday February 8th 1810

Set off for Œgrippo nine o’clock.238  Road for two hours after leaving the city a little through olive grounds, then passed Koukouvaones, a village.  The deep chasm formed by the larger Cephissus, which takes an abrupt turn in this direction from Cevrisa.  Road for two hours more through low grounds, heathy and shrubby, then ascended the hills enveloping the plain of Athens on this side for an hour, till came to Tatoë, a fountain on a hillock in the midst of hills.  Athens, its plain and ports, are seen from this five hours distance, the Acropolis exactly south-south-west from it.  On a hillock above is a bit of wall.  It is four miles from Oropo and perhaps may be the Decelia of the antiques.

For an hour and a half continued through hills – precipices with wood – till got to the north of the high range of Parnes (Ozea), round the lower hills of which it appears we had been winding.  A solitary church.  St Macaurea.  Go on, more northwards, down the hills, till getting to their foot directed ourselves directly north-west to a high ruin in view, in a plain reckoned four hours from this point, bounded, on the south side, by Cithæron, a range of mountains having many names, mixing with Parnes (Ozea) to the east, and separated from it by the valley of Seonitta [sketch-map] and on the north by low hills, cultivated in parts with spots of evergreens as usual.

Going on northly for an hour and a half, crossed the Cephissus, a muddy torrent.  In a short time, came to where the road forks for Œgrippo and Thebes, first going north.  The other, near the river north-west, one hour more, keeping road to Thebes, then parting till come to the tower on the north (right), of the road to Thebes situated on a hill.  Look at this, which is not antique, but certainly composed of stones used for some ancient building – the brick used here.  Took a view of the plain (that of Tanagra, I think), Thebes lying behind low hills in the middle as if north-north-west, the river flowing west-north-west.

Came to a village (Œnoe), go northwards, and [in] one and a half [hours] arrived at Schimitari, a village, eighty houses, of Ali Pacha’s – five hours from Thebes, three from Œgrippo.  Near it is a tract of wheat ground, lying on pleasing swellings of the plain and a broad path leads to the village * * * * * * * * * + + + + + + +239

Bought a pig at a bargain!!  Four shillings for two – twenty-seven pounds.  Had as a second table guest240 a man who for holiness’ and distinction’s sake had made a tour to Jerusalem – going by sea to Jaffa in a day, and from thence to Jerusalem in twelve hours – expense coming and going, 1,000 piastres, and dear – called “Hadji” for his pains.241  This folly is not uncommon.  I saw another at Agrios Meliteos, the monastery in Cithæron, and at Athens there are ten or twelve who have been there.

This man of Schimitari, as well as the monk indeed, seemed more liberal than the rest of the world – the more he had seen the less he believed.  I was talking about the distance to the sun.  The Surgee innocently said, “ωοσαις οδαιο ειναη”.  I answered “δωδενα νυ μεση μελ αξοουα.” – “Yes,” said the hadji, “With the horses of the prophet Elijah.” (“μελ αξζοουα λεου αξοφηλου Ελξα”).242  He was but a common fellow, miserably dressed, and sleeping in the same room with his beasts, as is common in Greece, not in Albania.

To bed eleven, sick of pig – having drunk rachee as a corrective, which made one worse.  Rain part of the day.

Friday February 9th 1810

Up nine.  Set out for Œgrippo.243  Misty morning.  Road, north over uneven downs, at first cultivated … then cross heaths with ravines.  In sight of the Gulf of Œgrippo, and a plain under the high hills of Oeubea coverd with olive trees.  Turned to the left, passed over a ravine or bed of [what is] called the river of Vathy, from a neighbouring village through which we passed.  Get to the shore, and deep winding along by the side of the water by a bad road.  Œgrippo not appearing for some time on account of its situation on the north-east side of a broad flat peninsula, which makes the windings of the Euripus244 here look like inland lakes, and diminishes the astonishment that would otherwise arise from the view of the smallness of the strait at the bridge of Œgrippo.  Came to the north-east side of the hills of Boetia, seen from our village – road bad, and tumbles,245 the first in my travels.

Got to the bridge connecting the island with the mainland, which [is] on an eminence, just above, commanding the castle of Œgrippo [which] has a whitewashed fort – called Carababa – pass over – first a small narrow wooden bridge,246 about fifteen paces in length, to a stone tower with guns in this shape [sketch] then through this, where is a large-bored thin cannon,247 then on another bridge over the principal stream (for a stream it is) about the same size, into the castle on248 the island.

Go on some way through the street of the buildings of the castle, then over the larger wooden bridge of the castle, past a broad reedy marsh, into the town – a Turk Town – the greater part Turks, of whom many savage things are said: the Surgee who was with me was himself a witness to a piece of unpleasant waggery on their part.  An Englishman who had a firman came into the castle: passing the gate to go out, the captain of the guard asked him for his firman – he showed him his firman – “Have you no other?” said the guard – “No,” answered the visitor, “Well,” replied the Turk, “I see here a licence for you to go in to the castle, but none for you to go out” – and so shut him up for some days as a fright and warning to him.249  The same story is told of Candia,250 with the addition that the Englishman was killed.  It is a saying, “As bad as the Greeks of Athens, the Turks of Œgrippo and the Jews of Salonica.”  Franks are not often seen here, and are not used well; i.e. they are followed and screamed after by the boys in the streets.251 I had a letter from the commandant of Athens to an Aga, and to the Pasha Bachir, a Vizier of three tails.252  Delivered both.  The Aga not at home but put up at his house.253

Visited by a Frank physician,254 a greasy butcher-like looking fellow, a Timiot imperial255 who complained of the Turks liking the Oelo256 &c.  “Which,” added he, “would be well enough in a bel giovane of fifteen years”.

Took with the said a walk round the east of the town, which is on this side surrounded by low pales (Cervantes says the characteristic of a great man is having servants as well drest as himself).257  Coming on the northern eminence, you have a view of the high mountains of the island covered in the perpetual snows, from the summit of which, as a Turk told me, Athens, Megara, and the whole of the south of Greece appears as in a map laid out below.  (“Vesti gratia” and “Deo libera”, the physician’s phrases, who said he was not a slave but was kept eighteen months against his will by the Pacha.)258

Walking through the town, trapped into [a] visit with the Sub-Governor.259  Well received, with ceremony by the Turk, a little-eyed, pleasant man.  Whilst talking with him he shuffled off to see the Vizier himself, who was holding a divan, as I was told, on purpose,260 in a little room crowded with splendid Turks.  The side-sofa on which the Vizier was sitting being empty on which I sat down,261 after having pulled off my boots, and being advised to kiss his foot, which I did not do,262 but stayed, and stood till told to sit down, every compliment paid.  Told three times at intervals, that seemed strange to me, that I was very welcome.263  (This is, I hear, [the] custom.)  Pipe, coffee, sweets, sherbet and perfume.264  Attempted to go, but desired by Vizier to sit down again.  Asked me if I was an Englishman, having a black velvet cap with mustaches,265 shuffled off my visit to his castle,266 where he told me there was nothing to see, and called two men tall, bearded and grave, who bowed and made obeisances as he spoke, desiring them to show me the water of the Euripus,267 which I had seen before to be sure.

Going out, poor silly frightened Demetrius was robbed, as it appears, of eighty piastres by these fine-dressed men, who stretched out their hands to him for money.  He had thrown away fifty-four before, at the sub-commandants, and a knowing man would have called out for the pipe-bearer, the coffee-bearer, the sherbet-, the perfume-bearer, and given them each five piastres – for with these no ceremony or decency is necessary.

Walked with a crowd, and the grave conductors, who were saluted most profoundly fifty times in their passage, with all my suite, to the bridge.268  Looked over the rails for half a minute and said I was satisfied, so returned to the Aga’s house with all the company, mob, &c. at which I had put up, and there gave these great men twenty shillings between them, for the receipt of which they bowed as gravely as ever, and left me.269  Soon after, the scrivand Greek brought me a letter from the Vizier to the commandant of Athens, and I departed, going over the bridge, and almost minded to throw myself in, as Aristotle [had] done,270 for the loss of my money in viewing this natural curiosity.

Of this water, I could get no fixed account.  The doctor told me that “By God he had never been to see it, but that if anyone had told me that it changed its flowing more than twice in twenty-four hours they had told me a lie”.  He had lived there eighteen months.  A Greek told me it changed seven times in twenty-four hours.  A Turk, who was a guard at the gate, five times, for which number it was easy to account when he mentioned that it was not long that it had been thus strange, for, said he, a certain holy Turk being confined in the prison271 that overlooks the water, and not knowing when to pray, begged of God to send him some sign – which was immediately given by the water flowing and reflowing five times per di.  If not, another man told me that the changes were irregular, which seems to me most natural, and depending on the quarter of the wind – the channel is very narrow and very shallow, four feet at the lowest, and whatever tide there is in these seas must show itself there.  The two arms of the sea are very large, particularly that to the north.  When the wind is             272 the change is four times only in the twenty-four hours.  When east and violent over the mountains of Eubea, the alterations are more frequent273 and at the full of the moon attended with extraordinary turbulence, and eddies near the bridges.  The water flows through the bridges with violence, and strong eddies are made about a hundred yards above the bridges on the side where the tide is to change, which I saw; but this current is not perceived on either side of the bridges for any length, or distance.

Returned, in a rage I shall never forget,274 by a shorter road, crossing a cleft in the hill to Scimitari in two hours and a half.  It is reckoned three hours.  Waiting for my dish of cold pork from yesterday’s pig, saw a dead woman carried in a rug to be buried.  She had a thin rag, just enough to cover her, and after [the] service, performed by [the] resident caloyer275 in a hasty manner, was put into a trench, not deep, sandles tied on her feet and a stone with the sign of the cross on her breast.  No-one wept, or seemed sorry.276  I asked the reason, and was told she was an orphan – of sixty years old, and how could anybody care for her?  The service was said over her body in the little church, and afterwards she was carried to the grave.

I went afterwards to see a beautiful woman with a cancer in her mouth – the wife of Hadji.  She was a most interesting object, but spoiled my dinner.  In the church I saw two ancient grave stones: “Χαιρε,”277 as usual.

Bad dinner, and bed.  The crowd of Greeks did not come tonight, no flesh being to be eaten.

Saturday February 10th 1810

Set out for the monastery of St Meleteus.  Road south for one hour and a half, over a plain.  Came to the site of an ancient city,278 as very apparent from remains of walls, spread round a hillock, and a set of stones about six feet at the top.  It is called Grematha, and many medals are daily found by the persons tilling the ground from the village of Schimitari, from which this plain is now denominated.  One [was] of a dog.  The coin of Tanagra I have got, and this seems to be the situation: it lies west from the high tower below, in the plain and Thebes [is] north-north-east.

Crossed the Asophus             279 [and] directly came into the mountains, a range of Cithæron.  A Greek chapel with four small columns on the summit of a hillock.  Castri, then road west-north-west.  Saw a village on the height, south-east, Mauvraomati.  Ascending still, turning west more, came into a narrow valley in the hills.  [A] goat road for about an hour, then got into one of the roads from Thebes to Athens, which we came by from Thebes, passing on the left a ruined tower on a scrag of rock, being part of the continuation of Cithæron, there low, as the land is high.  Crossed the west end of the plain of Scourta by Spalise, a small village with a larger sort of church in the right – turned, then west into the mountain (Cithæron) again, [but] lost our way in these high hills.

Got off my horse and walked, and tried the echoes of Cithæron280 – down a woody hill to a spot where two torrents met.  Up the opposite ascent to the monastery of Agios Meliteus.281  A little time before admittance there – entered – looked at the pillars of the church, reported to be porphyry, but only red marble.  Two octagon pillars – [the monks] consulted Demetrius282 whether they had not better take down four small marble pillars supporting the dome supporting the holy table, and put wood instead, as showing the gilding better.  There is a monumental bas-relief on the right hand entering the church door.

Told the brothers we were going to sleep there.  They asked who we had with us.  Told them a Surgee, and an Albanian guard, adding that he was a Xtian.  Vassily then happened to enter and confirmed our report by crossing himself most devoutly – got a good small room in one angle of the dormitory, which I afterwards found was devoted, as to its chambers, to bogging apartments.283

There are fifty brothers properly belonging to this convent now, about ten resident and five more in their metochis or farms.  Enquiring into the cause of their apprehension of us, they told us that they were frequently subject to play the part of hosts to Turks coming to and from the Morea, and that seeing we were not in the high road (Βασιλικι στρατή284) they did not know what sort of people we might be.  Indeed, they added that had they seen Vasilly they would not have let us enter.  About fifty Albanians had a short time since got a lodging in the monastery, and would not retire for a week.  A monk retreated privately, and called together about two hundred of the Dervene guard, and expelled them.  The monks have guns and arms, and unless entrapped to give admission to travellers, can never be forced into it by any body of armed men.  They belong to the Dervene.

The Dervene is the guard of the Isthmus,285 and in order to prevent the egress of an unpermitted person from the Morea (for anyone may enter it), the mountains of the Megaris are occupied by an armed population of the Greeks, inhabiting the small towns, seven in number, called Dervene-choria, of which Megara is the largest and Kondura the next in size.  There is in the passes of the mountains a perpetual guard, but every cottage is supplied with arms, and on the least alarm the mountains are in a state of defence.  Thirty-nine years past they were ordered by the Pacha of the Morea, in conjunction with the Capitan Pacha, who, ex officio, used to command them, to destroy a large body [of] 6 or 7,000 Albanians who were endeavouring to pass, with the spoils of Morea, into their own country.286  Very few escaped – many were killed by the monastery of Agios Meliteus, attempting to fly through the unfrequented paths of Cithæron, between the two roads to Athens from Thebes.  About ten years ago, 150 Albanians, Turks, being discontented with the pay of the Pasha of the Morea, endeavoured to force through the Dervene.  An order came from the Pasha, [and] they were intercepted by the armed population – about ten killed, and the rest delivered up in chains to the Pacha.  These Dervenites, as they are called, have only one